Fits: Chrysler Sebring 1996-2006 Convertible top & Plastic Window Black Sailcloth (1 Piece Easy Install)

No instructions, but youtube it. Easy to install, just take your time. And the material is nice. Was expecting thin crap for the price, but I was wrong. Perfect fit as well.

i recommend having it installed by a professional or at least someone who has the knowledge & tools for a project like this. if it leaks, the cause is most likely poor installation....i knew i didn't trust myself. old high mileage cars are tough because there is a limit to how much is worth spending to keep them on the road. my biggest challenge was finding a professional that would intall a part that i bought myself. the guy who installed it asked me where i got it. he thought it was really good quality for an economical unit like this & he posted a picture on his website after he completed the job. the intallation was done well. the car is sealed up. he said there was no information included with it. he was still able to complete the job in 3 hours since he has the background in auto roofing. it's holding up in noreasters. he cautioned me to carefully use an ice scraper in the winter because plastic is more at risk for cracking in freezing temperatures & it doesn't heat up as easily as glass. i have a small heated electric ice scraper so i hope that will be a good solution. i'm very pleased with this cost effective roof. it's the perfect solution for an old car with a roof leak. i got it for a good price, found an affordable installation, and it allows me to go out worry free again in wet weather.

UPDATE 6/7/2018 - I've now had the top on the car for a few weeks and been through some VERY rainy weather. I am glad to report that the top does not leak when parked or driving speeds from in town to interstate highway even in very heavy driving rain.<end of update>I installed this top on my 2000 Sebring convertible and thought I'd post a review. I can't speak to the durability yet, but the fit and installation was great. I didn't give it a fifth star because I didn't find any instructions in the box. I was a professional auto mechanic for 15 years, but left that field a couple of decades ago. I've never installed a convertible top before, and only done a few upholstery related jobs in my lifetime. I was able to install it in one evening. Including time for glue to set, it took me about 4 hours. Read on for how I did it. I writing this the next morning, and so I might miss a step or two, so use this as a guide, not necessarily as perfect instructions.Tools I found useful in the process were:Drill with 5/16" drill bitswivel sockets (1/2" or 13mm, 8mm)Torx bits and driver (star bits to some people)Contact cement for gluing the front of the top onPhillips screw drivers #1 and #2Door panel removal tool to help re-inserting the weather stripping (you could probably substitute a butter knife)Razor knife to help with removing the old topFoam paint brush for applying contact cement (2" wide)2' long piece of 1" pvc pipe for propping up the top, you could substitute a box, bucket or whatever. It's helpful to have a couple of sizes.Pop rivets and tool. You need one pop rivet for each side, but should have a couple extra. I think mine were 1/8" or 3/16"Pliers for pulling the old top away from where it has been gluedSide cutters for removing staples from the front edge of the frame and the flanges at the rear of the top.Before you startRoll all the windows down completely. Place the new top in the sun to soften it up and make it easier to work with.RemovalI started with the front. Unlatch the top, raise it at least a foot, and prop it up with the pipe. Remove the Torx screws across the front, and the flange that they hold in place. Peel the cloth part of the top away from the front edge of the frame. Use the razor knife and cut the old top along the cable on each side so that you can fold the front edge of the top back revealing the first cross bar. Remove the screw from the middle of the cross bar (use the #1 Phillips) Pull the plastic runner out of the groove in the crossbar (you may need to grab the plastic runner with pliers). Fold the top back to reveal the second crossbar and repeat the process.Gently pull the weatherstrip that meets the back edge of the back window away from the frame starting at the bottom. Remove the three Phillips screws, then remove weatherstrip frame to the top frame and peel away the part of the cloth top that was tucked under the weather strip frame. Do this on both sides.Climb into the back seat and remove the screws holding the elastic for the inner headliner to the frame on the sides of the back seat. Pull the headliner away from the Velcro on the top so that you can cut the top without cutting the headliner.Fold the top back again, revealing the last crossbar, and pull the plastic runner out of the groove like you did on the other two. There was no screw in the third crossbar on my car. Cut the old top from one side to the other along the bottom window leaving enough for you to pull the top away from the back after you remove the flanges. Using the 1/2" or 13mm socket, remove the nuts and the flanges holding back edge of the top to the car frame. Pull the flanges and top away from the frame, remove the old top from the flanges.Before installing the new topMake sure that the top is propped open far enough for there to be slack in the two cables, then unbolt the Torx holding the spring at the rear end of the cable to the frame. Carefully drill out the rivet holding the front of the cable to the frame. Note that you may need to remove some of the weatherstrip to access the rivet.Remove any staples from the rear flanges and front frame.InstallationLay the new top on the car, Fold the back window portion forward exposing the plastic runner for the rear crossbar. Push the plastic runner into the crossbar, making sure it is centered. Unfold the back window portion, laying it into its normal position, and fold the front portion of the top back to the middle crossbar. Insert the plastic runner into the crossbar, and center it. Install the screw in the crossbar. Follow this same procedure for the front crossbar.Climb into the back seat, place the holes in the rear edge of the top over the studs, then place the flange over the studs and bolt it down. I found it helpful to start on one side, and work my way across putting the nuts on finger tight, only tightening once they were all started.Thread the cables through the runners on each side, small (rivet) end first from the rear to the front. I inserted a straightened out coat hanger from the front until it came out the back and taped the rivet end of the cable to the coat hanger and pulled it through. Rivet the front end of the cable to the frame. Bolt the spring end of the cable to the frame. Pop rivet the front of the cable to the frame.Paint the underside of the front edge of the top frame and the front 2" of the bottom side of the top with contact cement. Follow the instructions for the cement. Mine were to let the cement dry until tacky, then afix the two surfaces. I folded the front edge of the top over, and then reattached the flange with the Torx screws. I then removed the prop, closed and latched the top to let the glue dry for about 30 minutes.While the glue was drying, I reinstalled the weatherstrip frames at the back of the quarter windows, and reattached the headliner elastics.5/27/2018 - The top has been on for a couple of days, and yesterday I observed the the 2" velcro across the top of the back window became loose and fell off. I had to glue it back on. This would be worthy of a return, however it is TOO much work to remove the top for return/replacement. I'm also finding that the two pleats along the top of the windows through which the cable goes, don't seem to pull in under the top like they should.

Bought the Top in late Sept. thought my original would last till spring but got too bad. I found a company here in Chicago did a fantastic job the top looks perfect looks just a good as the glass I had on the old one. Can't tell it's plastic. The guy that installed it said very good quality because usually gets his own.

Amazing! Didn’t expect such great Quality. Tough cloth, flexibile, easy installation process. It was neatly cut accordingly to match my vechile Chrysler Sebring open Top. Also included extra cuts to manage the workspace while instalation.Was more than expectation, amazing size flexibility for bolt hookup/fixtures. Includes two peel and stick adhesives for top frame which correctly match’s . Clear display Rear WindShield. Good Suggestions after instalation by seller.Arrived in 2days as estimated while checkout.

Easy to install. My nephew installed the top in 6 hours. He’s not a mechanic nor does he have previous experience. Saved a lot of money and it’s made of good strong material. Fit my 2004 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

The top doesn’t come with instructions. It literally takes approximately 2 days of going back & forth with various YouTube videos & auto zone diagrams to figure it out.I sincerely wish I’d have just taken it to the shop, trying to save the $450-600 via the estimated cost from various garages cost us $300 dollars & two full days of time & frustration.

Didn’t last a year. Maybe opened it 20 times and window falls off. You get what you pay for.